KATHERINE GORGE
AN UPDATE!!
As you all probably know I hate writing at any time and can always find any excuse to do something else. However the last time I updated the website was early July and, as I was dragging the chain at that stage, and only did an update up to the end of our trip up the Cape. That seems so long ago – we have covered a lot of country since then and seen so much. So as Ross sits and watches the AFL grand final it is an opportune time to get back on track.
3rd June Left Mareeba and headed through the Atherton Tableland to Undara – tour of lava tubes. Then on to Normanton where we enjoyed the 3 day rodeo & show, a day trip to Karumba and travelled part way to Croydon and back on the Gulflander train. Mt Isa was our next stop where we had the car serviced, ran into Paul Morrell (mate of Stewart’s from high school), did a surface tour of Mt Isa mine where they mine copper silver lead & zinc, the Underground Hospital & museum, experienced very cold nights & needed to use heater in the van first thing in the mornings.
Our next stop was Camooweal, just a few kilometres from Qld/NT border, and maybe the smallest town we have stayed in. We left the van there & went north to camp at Lawn Hill National Park for 2 nights – an area that we nearly did not visit but were pleased we made the effort. It was well worth seeing the park and gorges there and the drive there was very interesting. The only way to see the gorges is by canoe which we managed without falling out. Neither of us have been in a canoe since we were kids. We left Camooweal heading for Cape Crawford but as we fuelled up at Barkley Homestead en route to Cape Crawford we saw brochure about the ABC Races at Brunette Downs – a 4 day event incl campdrafting, rodeo & bush races & decided to go along. Everyone dressed up for the races on the Saturday – they even had several different sections in Fashions on the Field. Amazing to see ladies so dressed up including high heels & hats parading around in the dirt and dust – there was not a blade of grass anywhere. Here we met up with some fellow travellers who were headed to King Ash Bay on the McArthur River just out of Borroloola so decided to tag along for a bit of fishing. Lunch on the way was at the Heartbreak Hotel at Cape Crawford with its interesting signage for male & female toilets (see photos). We had been forewarned about the cost of diesel at Cape Crawford ($2.25/lt) & filled up at Borroloola at $1.75/lt instead. Continuing on we visited the Daly Waters pub with its interesting assortment of collectables of every description as we pressed on towards Mataranka. Of course Mataranka is known for its thermal pools where the naturally warm water comes from deep underground and flows into the creek where a natural swimming hole has been made.
27th June Arrived in Katherine where we finished up staying almost 2 weeks. Highlights of our stay there include a 2 hour cruise up the Katherine River through the first two of the 13 gorges which make up Katherine Gorge. Did an evening croc spotting tour where we cruised downstream on the Katherine River looking for the red eyes of crocs between the boat & bank using torches as spotlights – saw a few on the way down river. Dinner was a BBQ on the river bank where our guide hand fed 2 crocs before we commenced our return journey. On the return trip we saw lots of fish incl barra and saw a fresh water croc take a fish & swim under boat towards the bank in order to devour his catch. They cannot eat underwater but need to bring their food to the bank. We visited the Museum where we viewed and interesting DVD presentation of the 1998 flood which saw the river peak at 20.4m and the water lapping just under the verandahs of shops in the main street. We also visited the School of the Air, saw the arrival of the Ghan at the railway terminal (passengers can visit the many tourist attractions in the area on their 4 hour stop over) and swam at the Hot Springs. We were happy to stay there for a while as Darwin was experiencing very humid weather at that time & we were no hurry to get to Darwin as John & Lee were not due to get there until towards the end of July.
8th July Arrived in Kakadu National Park where we stayed the first 2 nights at Cooinda. We enjoyed the well known cruise on the Yellow Waters billabong where we saw abundant birdlife not to mention many crocs including the “boss” of the billabong measuring just under 5m. The Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre provided a fascinating insight into the history and life of the indigenous people of this area. We then spent a further 6 nights at Jabiru. From here we explored Ubirr Rock with its aboriginal rock art & views over the flood plains and outliers, the magnificent views towards the escarpment from Nourlangie rock as well as more aboriginal rock art. We also saw Kakadu from the air during a 1 hr scenic flight and learned much more about the Park from the 3 films which run constantly at the Bowali Information Centre. Matt Lockhart who lives & works up here took Ross barramundi fishing for a day and then stayed the night with us.
We arrived in Darwin on 16th July where we waited for John & Lee (friends from Kinglake) to arrive. We had planned to meet in Darwin and travel together as far as Broome. First on the list of must do’s was some repairs to the van – we had shattered the waste water drainage system under the van which we totally rebuilt and then covered the entire area of PVC pipes with protective foam held in place with lots & lots of cable ties. We had plenty of time to give the van a thorough clean from top to bottom inside & out. We visited Darwin’s newest attraction (Crocosaurus Cove) where some of the largest crocs in captivity are on display - the largest being 5.2m weighing 670 kg, and the second largest 5.1 m weighing 700kg (Bert) who is 80 years old. The underwater viewing areas are great and provide a view of these large creatures which would not normally be possible. Watched as a young couple were lowered into one of the croc enclosures in ‘The Cage of Death’ - a purpose built acrylic cage which is lowered from an overhead monorail into any of the four separate croc enclosures for your “up close and personal” dive encounter with the massive salt water crocodiles. For this privilege you pay $160 each. The cage bears large scratched from teeth marks on previous dives. John & Lee arrived on the 25th. Together we visited Mindil Markets, East Point Military Museum, Cullen Bay, the underground WW2 oil tunnels, fished from Stokes Wharf. Our final day in Darwin was John’s birthday which we celebrated with a scrumptious seafood dinner at Crustaceans Restaurant on Stokes Wharf.
Stay tuned …