Tips on Driving to the Tip
The journey from Cairns to Cape York is a long one – almost 1000kms – and one where you'll experience almost every driving condition. In the first place, as you wind up the highway out of Cairns, with its spectacular views of stunning coastline, it's all serpentine bitumen. Easy stuff normally, but if it rains (as it often does in tropical Far North Queensland), the road can become greasy and slippery very quickly.
TIP: Don't worry, if you're a Pajero owner. If you're not in 4H already (yes, thanks to Mitsubishi's unique Super Select transmission system, it's possible to enjoy the safety of being in high range four-wheel drive on any road surface) slip the transfer case lever forward from 2H at any speed up to 100km/h. This, coupled with Pajero's built-in ASC (Active Stability Control) and ATC (Active Traction Control) will provide complete peace of mind, no matter how treacherous the road surface.
Daintree directions
From Daintree on, the road is no longer a major highway. You'll cross the Daintree River on the ferry that operates from 6:00AM to midnight and then the advantages of a high underbody clearance like Pajero's will immediately become apparent on the rutted, potholed, narrow and winding road to Cape Tribulation. Watch out for wandering wildlife on the road – particularly cassowaries.
From Cape Tribulation on, say goodbye to fellow travellers in conventional vehicles. The unsealed road through to Bloomfield, one of the most scenic sections of the drive to the Cape as the track winds up and down the Great Divide, is definitely 4WD-only. If it rains, even lightly, you'll need to engage 4HLc with the transfer case lever. Again, this can be done at any speed up to 100km/h. (In a Pajero you'll know it's engaged when the little picture of the vehicle in plan on the dash display shows both sets of wheels in solid green and the centre diff is glowing orange.)
TIP: The technique for driving on this extremely slippery surface is to avoid heavy throttle, brake and steering inputs. Keep everything smooth and deliberate, and look as far ahead as you can for any potential danger spots. Use the gears rather than the brakes to slow down where possible.
By the way, look out for wild chillies growing in the bush. These were originally planted by tin miners a hundred or so years ago – no doubt used to mask the taste of tainted meat. They'll be some of the hottest you'll ever taste!
Bloomfield notes
Eventually you'll come to the Bloomfield River Crossing. Even though water on the causeway can be quite shallow, to be on the safe side, engage Low Range (the furthest position of the transfer case lever towards the dash). If in a manual, drive across in second, in an auto 'D'. Avoid changing gears midstream. Once again, keep a steady pace – not too fast!
Just over 40kms further on, you'll come to the Lion's Den Hotel. Some say you can't say you've been to Far North Queensland unless you've had a beer in the Lion's Den! (Accommodation is available.)
From then on, it's more of the same until you reach Cooktown – great scenery, interesting locations to stop at and look around. The journey from Cairns to Cooktown should take at least two days; more if you want to really appreciate being there.
Cooktown-Coen
There are only a few things to be on the look out for on this part of the journey north. Occasional patches of heavy bulldust can be encountered. Bulldust is a common hazard in Outback Australia. Though it's as fine as talcum powder, it sucks traction from the wheels like glue.
TIP: With lighter stuff, just leave the 4WD in 4H, but for really heavy patches, lock the centre diff to avoid putting undue strain on the axle diffs. Again, maintaining momentum is more important than outright speed. Just keep up a steady throttle pressure, increasing revs if the vehicle starts to bog down. Watch out when coming out of the patches – the edges can be diabolically hard and sharp.
Quite a few river crossings must be done; some fairly deep if you're travelling just after the end of The Wet (April/May). Alternatively, with some you'll barely get the wheels wet. However, if any are filled with big rocks, use low range to keep the speed down, minimising the chance of body or sill damage.
Coen-Cape
After Coen (again, make sure you have a drink in another Outback icon, the Sexchange – originally 'Exchange' - Hotel), the drive is relentlessly boring, travelling through grey, scrubby country. Keep alert, stop regularly and stretch the legs.
And as you get further north, the corrugations begin. If there was one thing the 2004 Patience Well Expedition proved, it was that Pajeros can really cope with corrugations. Coming out of the Gibson Desert, the expeditioners used the Gunbarrel Highway. Now completely unmaintained, it boasts the worst corrugations in Australia. Cape York runs a close second.
TIP: There's nothing you can do to minimise the bone-jarring effects of really bad wash boarding, except to spare a thought for those travelling in less well-suspended vehicles. Sometimes, you can find a speed that's in harmonic vibration with the corrugations, but most times…
Once you're at The Tip, it's highly likely you'll do some sand driving. While places like Chilli Beach are usually hard-packed and can be tackled in high range, others like the beach at Somerset can often require low range. Again, steady rather than speedy is the name of the game. If in a manual, make your gear changes smooth and sure. Avoid too low a gear, which will just push too much torque through to the wheels, bogging you down. If in an auto, let the auto box find the optimal gear. It'll do it quicker and more surely than you can!